If, like me, you live in one of the traditional Ivy bastians of the Northeast then winter is well upon us — and I hope you already own a coat. But perhaps you’re looking to refresh your winter clothes and stay warm and dry with a bit more Ivy flair. Fall and winter are when the Ivy look excels. The combinations of sweaters, wool coats, Bean boots, schoolboy mufflers, flannels, tweeds, etc. etc. etc. provide an endless roster of handsome and practical options. Here are the essential cold weather items to supplement your capsule wardrobe and keep you toasty without resorting to a flask of brown liquor.
More Sweaters!
Look to the North for fine knitwear: fisherman’s sweaters from Norway and Ireland, chunky cardigans or Fair Isle woven in Scotland. If they go fishing off cold rocky shores and make warming whisky, there’s a good chance that they also make good sweaters. Finer sweaters in cashmere or merino wool are also lovely, though they don’t have that pleasing rustic weight.
A Winter Coat
For the past few years I’ve experienced fairly mild winters and often use layering instead of a true winter coat. But it is still essential to have a proper winter coat to protect you on those truly frigid days. Any sensible wool coat will get the job done, but consider adding a bit more panache to your winter-wear with a duffle coat, a peacoat, a polo coat, or a balmacaan.
Heavier Shirts
In the U.K. these might be called “country shirts” in heavier fabrics like chamois, flannel, or Viyella (a wool/cotton blend). A neat tattersall pairs well with your tweed jacket and a tie. A heavy flannel or chamois work shirt pairs well with jeans, Bean boots, and chopping down your own Christmas tree.
L.L. Bean Duck Boots
If there’s another winter boot preferred by the Ivy set I’m not aware of it. Wellingtons make sense if you’re strolling through a muddy marsh. The right hiking or service boots are handsome and rugged, but not the rubber boats of the duck boots. I’ve had both of my pairs repaired, one of them multiple times, and they’re good as new each time they return from the Maine workshop.
Corduroys
Skip the skinny five pocket pants and get some beefy wide wale cords that will keep your legs feeling toasty and luxurious. Corduroys go with everything. I wouldn’t hesitate to pair them with a jacket and tie, but they’re also embraced by the streetwear set in combos with chunky sneakers and beanies. Win-win.
A Handsome Scarf
Like the wool overcoat, there are plenty of simple handsome scarves that work well with an Ivy wardrobe. But I have a special affinity for the BEEFY striped wool schoolboy muffler. I asked for one for Christmas as a teenager and it may have been my first item from J. Press. My parents picked out a college that my grandfather attended so it never felt fraudulant for me to wear (not to mention that I wasn’t yet college age). However, much like regimental stripes, I doubt that many in the United States will take umbrage at the “stolen valor” of wearing school colors other than your own. If you don’t want to risk false affiliation there are many pleasing varieties of “schoolboy” muffler colors with no specific affiliations.
Accessories
There are many more areas where your cold weather accessories can be informed by Ivy style including gloves, hats, boot socks, and wintery wool ties. That said, I think it’s silly when there are debates about the “most Ivy” _______ (insert basic utilitarian item). I have Barbour boot socks ordered from England that are like walking on thick plush carpet. I also regualrly wear Timberland boot socks that I got on sale at Modell’s years ago. The same goes for gloves or wool caps. Sure, there are luxurious deerskin and cashmere offerings, but your department store leather gloves are probably more than servicable. Upgrade such practical accessories only as needed.
